In order to be transparent to our members we have given our members the option to rate each other. This allows the recommendation of friends with a mutual link. The idea is if I trust a member and they trust a friend surely I can trust the friend.
However, this might be controversial. What happens if I get a poor rating? It should indicate one of two things:
- You have never done this before (it might be your first trad day), or
- There is room for improvement of your skills
Remember, this is meant to be a positive environment that we can learn and share in.
Guidelines for Stars
Basically – what grade does the person climb. 1* will be in the absolute novice region, 8* would imply that the climber being rated is capable of onsighting 8B+. It’s a sliding scale and open to interpretation.
How good is the climber at placing gear, rope management and building anchors. There is a link to the exposure grade within this category as this is an inherent part of trad climbing.
This relates to outdoor sport climbing familiarity, for example how to thread bolts at the top of a climb. The higher the star rating here the more competent the climber is a being in a sport environment. Although Sport star ratings are not based on climbing ability the two are subtly linked.
Does the climber climb multipitch routes – are they happy building hanging belays on overhangs? This category relates to both the sport and trad multipitch routes. The higher stars rating are reserved for Trad multipitches.
Relates to the etiquette of indoor climbing, how good is a climber? Do they offer helpful beta? Or, do they push too hard? Indoor climbing is, generally, a more social experience and this rating should reflect the climbers attitude.
Can the climber relate to the style in which you want to be belayed? Will they adapt their style for you? More importantly – do they accept feedback in a friendly way?
Does the climber have the ability to rescue from a multitude of situations? If you’ve abseiled into a sea cliff do they have the ability to get both of you out of that environment if something goes wrong? Are these things considered in the first instance? What about halfway up a mountain – it’s a different skill set!
How much kit does the climber have – does their trad rack need a few more bits to be able to be considered complete? Can a rack ever be complete? This is an indicator on how much kit that a climber owns not how good they are at using it. There is an aspect here of how well maintained a climbers kit is.
If you give a low star rating – please justify it constructively. It might be that you have never climbed sport with a climber and can’t comment on their ability. If might be that there are areas for improvement. Please read your review as if it was written about you before posting it. How would you like to be told that there is room for improvement by some stating “Don’t climb with X they don’t know how to belay”?